“Knowing Your Soil”

Soil is alive, at least healthy soil; chemicals and synthetics deplete your soil and cause destruction to the microorganisms and even your earthworms. Treat your soil, the way you would yourself. They are both living organisms.

Soil testing is one of the most beneficial and needed tools in determining what your soil is, or is not providing to our plants. Having this information will aide you in choosing the right amendments, as well as the proper amounts. Testing your soil is the most cost effective decision you can make for your crops and garden.

The simple, do it yourself soil tests allows you these 4 important pieces of information:

1.PH Levels – It measures the alkalinity/acidity of your soil. The best number is between 6 and 7. When PH levels are too high, as is most often the case in our area, or too low, the soil gets locked up. Which means it doesn’t allow the plants to access the nutrients that may be present in the soil, including the ones we may add.

2 Nitrogen – which is air and it’s needed for all phases of growth. Plants roots need air, just the way the tops do. The microbial that are present in “alive” soil, need air also.

3. Phosphorus – This is essential for proper fruiting, flowering, seed formation and root branching. It also builds plant resistance to disease.

4. Potassium/Potash – It regulates water movement in plants and helps with production of sugars, starches, and proteins. It also increases cold hardiness.

Soil tests are simple. Here’s all you’ll need:

1. Soil test kit

2. A trowel or garden spade, don’t use rusty or corroded tools, or anything copper or aluminum as they will affect your test accuracy.

3. A clean, non-metal container for collection of samples. For best results use a glass, plastic, or ceramic container. A new plastic bag will also work.

To do the test:

1. Begin by removing any plant matter from sample surface

2. Using a tool, reach desired depth for sampling 3-4”

3. Take a very narrow slice of soil (the core) from the desired depth

4.Collect sufficient number of samples 3-4 per 100 sq ft (or your “bed”) and place them all in your container

5. Now use your kit to determine PH levels, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium levels.

Here is a list of amendments and their purposes. Knowing the square footage of your area will help you in purchasing the proper amounts.

Compost

The most important ingredient! A must for all beds. It introduces organic matter, microbial life, and helps sweeten our alkaline soils. Apply 3 – 4” for new beds and 1” a year to established beds.

5-1-2 Alfalfa Meal

A good source of nitrogen. Contains triacontanol, a natural fatty-acid growth stimulant.

30 lbs per 1000 sq ft

Or

3-4 lb per 100 sq ft

7-2-2 Cottonseed Meal

Another good source of nitrogen, as well as adding a little bit of acidity to soils.

20 lbs per 1000 sq ft

Or

2 – 2.5 lbs per 100 sq ft

D. E. or Diatomaceous Earth

A wonderful amendment to work into soil, adds some trace minerals, but when the plants begin to take it up into their cell structure it will deter the pests from wanting to eat them.

Earthworm Castings

It’s up to 50% organic matter, trace minerals, humus and beneficial bacteria. It’s also an amazing fertilizer for houseplants. Put a handful in the hole when planting with Tennessee Brown Rock Phosphate. Also aids in seed germination.

20 – 40 lb per 1000 sq ft

Or

2 – 4 lb per 100 sq ft

Expanded Shale

Apply 2 – 3 inches on surface of soil and then work it in. This will not leech into your soil so you must dig it in. It is a great water retainer and aids with drainage and once you put it in you will never have to do it again because it suspends itself in your soil. Also great for containers by cutting down on how often you need to water.

0-2-5 Green Sand

Contains about 20% iron with trace minerals and it really greens things up.

40 lb per 1000 sq ft

Or

4 -5 lb per 100 sq ft

Humate

A wonderful amendment that will bind with your soil and allow it to use water more effectively. Also an excellent source of humic acid that increases organic matter in soil. Needs 3 weeks to bind with your soil.

5 lb per 1000 sq ft

Or

½ lb per 100 sq ft

Lava Sand

Circles with moisture retention as well as drainage. It is a highly paramagnetic soil amendment.

80 lb per 1000 ft

Or

8 – 10 lbs per 100 sq ft

Minerals Plus

Contains 3 varieties of paramagnetic volcanic rock sources. If your soil is lacking minerals this is for you. Needs 3 weeks to bind with your soil.

40 – 80 lb per 1000 sq ft

Or

6 – 8 lb per 100 sq ft

Molasses

This is a syrup product and it is available in dry or liquid forms. The dry is much easier for amending beds because you can evenly distribute by weight. This is a carbohydrate that feeds and stimulates microorganisms, is a great sugar fix for everything and it helps to control fire ants.

10 – 20 lb per 1000 sq ft

Or

2 lb per 100 sq ft

Soft Rock Phosphate/Tennessee Brown Phosphate

An excellent source of phosphorous. It promotes growth of roots, blossom set and seed germination. Put a handful in the soil when planting. Use with worm castings…also very helpful with seed germination.