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BASIC ORGANIC PROGRAM-- Planting in New Beds of Shrubs, Perennials, or Annuals: PRODUCTS NEEDED: *Compost *Rabbit Hill Soil Builder *Expanded Shale *Mulch Remove all unwanted weeds and vegetation. If Bermuda grass is present dig it out to a depth of at least 2 inches. Do not till Bermuda grass into the ground, this will only cause it to spread. Add 2 to 4 inches of compost, 1 to 2 inches of Expanded Shale, and 4 pounds of Rabbit Hill Soil Builder per each 25 square feet of bed. Work, or till this mixture in the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Remember to mulch all new and existing plantings with hardwood or cedar mulch to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. _________________________________________________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________________________________________________ “Planting Methods” Four Things Needed For Successful Planting · Worm castings – helps airation, water retention, an amazing food source and it won’t burn even the tenderest of plants
·Tennessee Brown Rock Phosphate –(soft rock phosphate) A great source of calcium and magnesium
· Extra Compost – where needed – organic matter
· Liquid Seaweed or Sea Mist – root stimulator
Availability of Food Sources · Back Up Reserves – placing extra compost beyond the young roots so as they mature the roots will eventually find the backup organic matter. Expanded Shale and Lava Sand are backups too. They hold extra moisture and release it to the plant as they need it.
· Slow Release Foods Sources – when planting starts or seeds, line your holes or trenches with a heavy dose of worm castings and a generous film of Tennessee Brown Rock Phosphate. Also using a good organic fertilizer like Lady Bug, on a monthly basis will continually slow feeds your gardening.
· Root Stimulators and Instant Food Sources – After planting, water in with Liquid Seaweed or Sea Mist. These products promote root development before pushing for outer growth like most liquid fertilizers do.
· Crop Rotation – Almost all vegetables benefit from being planted in a different area each year. This cuts down on soil born diseases and bug damage.
Planting Onions · Dig a trench 5” deep and 4” wide
· Place an inch of compost in the hole, an inch of expanded shale and add ½ cup of Tennessee Brown Rock Phosphate per 10’ of row (Backup reserves)
· Cover with an inch or so of soil
· Line trenches with worm castings and a healthy dusting of Tennessee Brown Rock Phosphate (slow release food)
· Place the onion slips so they are about 1” deep and 4” apart or you can plant them 2” apart and as they grow you can thin every other one and use as green onions
· Water in with a liquid seaweed product (Root Stimulator, and instant food)
· Cover with 2 – 3” of mulch (cedar, hardwood, or straw)
Growing Tips Onions need full sun, good drainage, and regular water to do well. They also require a high source of nitrogen. Fertilize three weeks after planting, alfalfa meal or Lady Bug Fertilizer are best, and again 3 weeks later. Harvest Onions When the necks begin to soften and the tops begin to fall over at a rate of 70% to 90%. Generally May is the harvesting time—Mother Nature has her own ideas. Lift them gently, doing your best to leave the skins, foliage and tops intact. They also bruise easily so handle with care. Drying Onions Leave the roots and tops on while they are drying. Lay them out on elevated old screen, out of direct light, and away from moisture. A fan can help as well. Allow 8 to 15 days to dry. Then remove roots and cut off tops leaving a t least 1” of neck. Storing Onions Store in a cool, dry, dark place, 35 to 50 degrees. They should keep for 2 to 6 months. Garlic There are two types of Garlic: · gSoft-neck garlic known as silver skin or artichoke garlic, the type sold in grocery stores, is the best for Texas weather.
·Hard-neck garlic has large easy peeling cloves that from around the stiff woody stem. These varieties tend to develop flower stalks. Most are best for northern climates.
Growing Garlic The best time to plant garlic cloves is in the fall, mid-October to early November. The cold of winter is needed to initiate the side buds that will produce the cloves. A good place to order your garlic for Texas is: www.gourmetgarlicgardens.com/growsouth.htm You can plant garlic plants in late winter, January to February, if you can find them. Planting Garlic Prepare your planting as you would for onions, except push the cloves 2” into the soil and leave the paper skin on them. Remember that drainage is very important! Expanded shale is a life saver for drainage issues. Harvesting Garlic They are ready to harvest when the foliage has died off, or mostly died off, usually in May. Lift them out gently, leaving tops, roots, and skins intact. Wash the bulbs and roots and then lay them out on an elevated old screen or fence section or tied in loose bundles form their old leaves and hung up. Make sure they are in a cool, dry, ventilated area that is out of direct light. These will be the same requirements for storage. After drying remove roots and cut tops leaving 1” of neck or you can leave the tops and try braiding together. Potatoes ·Choose an early-maturing variety
·One pound seed potatoes will produce between 6-9 lbs
·Maintain soil or mulch over the potatoes to prevent exposure to sunlight which can cause greening or sunburn. The “Green” portions can be toxic. Studies show it contributes to Alzheimer’s
·Begin by cutting seed potatoes into sections with at least 3 eyes each
·Roll the in Tennessee Brown Rock Phosphate, some people also use sulfur or wood ash. This is to prevent rotting
·Allow to callous or “heal” for 2-4 days prior to planting
Planting Potatoes - Sowing Directly in Soil ·Dig a trench 4”-5” deep, 8”-10” wide
·Add an inch of compost and an inch of expanded shale (back up reserves)
·Rake your soil back into place hilling down the center
·Dig holes in hill 3”-4” deep and 89”-12” apart
·Add 2 handfuls of worm castings, 1 handful of Rock Phosphate place potatoes piece 3” deep with cut side down
·Water in with a liquid seaweed (root stimulator and fast release food)
·Mulch with 2”-3” cedar , hardwood, or straw
·As plants grow continue to hill up, leaving at least 3” of foliage showing
·2-3 weeks after planting apply a heavy dose of nitrogen (they love it) Alfalfa meal or Lady Bug Fertilizer
Potato Boxes and Straw/Mulch ·Your potatoes will still be growing out of the soil, only more vertically, using less space ·Place box over prepared bed, digging 4”-5” out of center
·Add 1” expanded shale and 1” compost (backup reserves)
·Rake bedding soil back in place
·Ina 2 x 2 box you can plant 4 to 5 seed piece s
·Add about ½” of worm castings and 1-1 ½ cups Rock Phosphate – rough it around a little
·Place you seed, cut side down and press in to soil, about 2/3 the way down
·Cover with 6” of straw and firm down
·Water in well with liquid seaweed
·As potato plants emerge add another 4”-6” of straw, always keeping at least 3” of foliage showing
·Keep moist, but not soggy!
·2-3 weeks after planting apply a high nitrogen fertilizer (Alfalfa Meal or Lady Bug Fertilizer) and again at 6-7 weeks
Harvest and Storing Potatoes ·Harvest when the foliage starts to turn brown, usually 90-120 days, for fresh eating
·For good storage wait till the foliage is completely brown and dead for 2 weeks
·Avoid nicking or stabbing your “taters”, dig gently. I avoid shovels. I prefer using my hands and gentle lifting tools
·To cure them, lay out in a well ventilated area, in darkness if possible, where temps are above 50 degrees
·Store in med-cool, away from direct light. The cooler the space the longer they’ll keep
Asparagus A perennial veggie that at maturity can get 5’– 6’ tall. It has a life expectancy of 7 - 15 years, depending on how it’s cared for. Due to its size, I recommend preparing a bed for it alone. Spacing for 10 Crowns ·Beds should be 3’ -4’ wide
·Allow 18” – 24” between plants
·Average bed size 4’ wide x 18’ long = 72 sq ft
Preparing Bed for 10 Crowns ·Because asparagus plantings last for years, good bed prep is essential
·Till up bed to 8” or as deep as you can, before you hit rock
·Add at least 4” of compost (organic matter), 2” expanded shale (5-6 bags), and 10-12 lbs of dry molasses
·Dig holes 12” x 12” wide and 8” deep
· Create hills 3”-4” tall within the holes
·Line the hill with a thick film of worm castings and a generous amount of Tennessee Brown Rock Phosphate
·Place crown on top of hill, fan the roots out like a spiders legs
· Fill in the last 4” with left over prepared soil
·Mulch with at least 2”-3” cedar, hardwood, or straw
·Water in well with a liquid seaweed (instant food source)
Growing Tips ·Needs full sun, and will handle high ph levels
·Soak the crowns in seaweed for a few hours before planting. Save the liquid to water in after planting
Harvesting Tips ·Don’t harvest the 1st year you plant
· You can harvest 1-2 weeks the 2nd year, 2-3 the 3rd year and up to a month in the 4th year and beyond
·After harvesting time allow spears to develop their fern-like stalks
·When harvesting, cut spears 1” below soil line
·In the fall, after tops die, also cut back 1’ below soil line
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